It has been one of our family’s long-time dreams – to go and see Biri Island. For years we heard so much about Biri, about its famous rock formations, but sadly, also about stories of how dangerous it is to cross the sea to this remote island.
Finally the dream came true last week, when we all packed our bags and supplies and, together with some friends and our pet Kitchie, we headed off to Northern Samar.
The good news first: motoring from Tacloban to Calbayog via the Maharlika Highway is now a breeze! What was once described as the worst roads in the world is now a completely paved highway! However, it is the segment from Calbayog to Allen, Northern Samar which is still in such a sorry state. They all say it would be repaired soon… but that remains to be seen.
We left Tacloban Wednesday at 10AM, had lunch at Catbalogan and reached the town of Allen at around 5PM. Having decided to take the banca ride crossing in the morning and not in the afternoon out of fear of encountering thunderstorms, we checked in at Kinabranan Lodge, a pension house in Allen where we earlier made reservations. Allen is just next to the town of Lavezares – the jump-off point to Biri.
We were up early the next morning and after breakfast headed on to Lavezares, a mere 15-minute drive away, where we found our chartered motorized banca awaiting. The Lavezares to Biri route takes about 45 minutes and can be treacherous during bad weather. Well, there were indeed areas where the ride was rough notwithstanding the relatively good weather, and I could only imagine what it’s like during the months of October to February which is the habagat season and where horror stories are experienced.
And so we reached Biri Island at around 10AM. Finally after all these years!
So you ask, what’s so special about Biri?
The huge, enormous and ancient rock formations, the rocky outcroppings and cliffs, and the giant pounding waves – these are what make Biri one of the most spectacular and picturesque travel sites the Philippines can brag about. Not an understatement.
Biri Island is among a cluster of 18 islands known as Balicuarto Islands off the northernmost tip of Samar. Biri Island is located in the most northerly part, at the San Bernardino Strait which forms the divide between the main Island of Luzon and the Island of Samar. This famous strait is where some 70% of seawater flows in and out of the Visayas area from the mighty Pacific Ocean so you can just imagine how ferocious the tidal current is in these areas.
Since the beginning of time Biri Island has been subjected to mighty pounding by natural forces – by strong typhoons and currents from the vast Pacific Ocean. Nature’s wrath has resulted in the incredible natural scenery that is now found in Biri. It is here where one can find one of the world’s most amazing natural rock formations.
It is hard to describe the rock formations. They look like giant marble cakes carved uniquely by nature.
Foremost of these magnificent rock formations are those of Magasang and the one at Bel-at.
At Magasang, above, one finds two huge, beautifully carved rocks, each about the size of a three-story building, standing separately on a wide flat rock bed.
Another big rock formation with a bat cave underneath can be found in Bel-at, above.
These spots alone have been slowly attracting both foreign and domestic tourists over the years.
Aside from these, there are scuba diving, surfing and snorkeling areas in crystal-clear blue waters. The whole area around the island has been proclaimed a Marine National Park by the national government, recognizing Biri Island as an area of important marine significance.
Biri Island is one quiet and laid back place. But the onset of modernization has found its way to the island. There are a couple of beach resorts owned by locals married to foreigners. They have their own websites. There are even air-conditioned rooms with reasonable rates. Electricity, however is only from 12 noon to 12 midnight. Generators take over the rest of the time. Mobile phone signals are strong in the island. Hence the kids were updated with their Facebook activities.
There are no major roads in the island. Only motorbikes or habal-habal without sidecars are what you ride on to get to the rock formations and to the other barangays.
We were all amazed at the rock formations we decided to waive off island hopping originally scheduled for the next day. We opted to return instead to the natural wonder of Biri’s rock monuments.
Truly awesome.
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HOW TO GET THERE
The jump-off point to Biri Island is in Lavezares, Northern Samar which is about 45 minutes from Catarman, 15 minutes from Allen.
Catarman is about 5-7 hours drive from Tacloban (via Maharlika Highway, then taking the Calbayog-Lope de Vega-Catarman route which is well paved all the way.) There are now regular flights from Manila to Catarman (please check Cebu Pacific, Zest Air and Air Philippines.)
Allen is also about 5-6 hours non-stop drive from Tacloban, and can be reached via ferry boat from Matnog, Sorsogon.
The motorized banca ride (pumpboat) from Lavezares to Biri takes about 45 minutes. There are many regular trips (PhP50/pax) at the town’s docking area at the back of the public market. Chartered trips (pakyaw) costs PhP750.
There are regular big pumpboat trips from Matnog direct to Biri but I have no further info on skeds and rates.
WHERE TO STAY IN BIRI
There are about 4 to 5 resorts/lodging houses in Biri which charge reasonable rates anywhere from PhP500/day for non-aircon/fan rooms to PhP1,200 for aircon rooms. These “resorts” are mostly owned by foreigners married to locals. They have websites which can be googled (search: Biri Island, Northern Samar). We stayed at Villa Amor.
WHAT TO BRING
Swimwear, sunblock, snorkeling gear (mask, snorkel and fins) and your own scuba diving gear if you’re into it; and cameras. Bottled water, canned goods and snack items, too, although they can be bought at the town’s public market and some sari-sari stores.
There are no established restaurants there but one can get help from lodging personnel to have your meals cooked and even brought to the rock formations.
Electricity is only from 12 noon to 12 midnight.
Mobile phone signals of major telecoms are strong in the island.
GETTING AROUND THE ISLAND
The only means of land transpo around the island is the habal-habal (single motorbikes). Depending on your destination, they have set charges posted at the town’s pier. Anywhere from PhP5 – 30/pax.
FOR FURTHER INFO & TOUR ASSISTANCE
Please contact Leyte Gulf Travel & Tours: calle Zaragosa, Independencia St., Tacloban City (63)(53) 321-7966, 523-7966, 09173060168
love! love! love! pangeeeeeet kaaaaaa! lol!
whahahahahaha! sabi ko sayo sumama ka!!!
Wow! Thanks for sharing, Mr. Ruiz. How far is this place from Tacloban? My wife, who’s from Merida, and I are thinking of visiting later this year. But I’d like to see how we could get there. Google maps usually gives no info about secluded places such as this.
Hi Ray. I updated my post above with a “How to get there” section. Enjoy!
Thanks so much for sharing.
wow! great photos! i want to go to Biri too!
Man Ger, are there any plans of returning to Biri this April? Very nice photos. Love it.
Hahaha Welcome back! A little bird told me you were back in town, waray ka man pagpapa-abat
I’d love to return to Biri; truth to tell we were not able to explore the whole area! I’m sure there are more to shoot.
Let’s discuss at calle z cafe.
Amazing! Can you just imagine what sunrises and sunsets look like on Biri Island? Is it safe and possible to shoot during those times? I would love to tag along should you guys return. It looks like my kind of beach, so many nooks and crannies to explore and not a single other visitor in sight.
Thanks, Mel! Indeed the site, specially the rock formations, is cinematic, to say the least. Since the rockies are in the east facing the Pacific, you get sunrises rising from the sea. Sunsets would be a matter of play on what horizon you’d like to have; the rocky terrain I’m sure would be logical but you can also use the reflection from the natural pool.
Yes, it’s safe to shoot around at these times although during high tide, crossing to/fro the rock formations can be tricky as water level goes waist high. Camping at the site for great shots would be the best option.
the sunsets in biri are really good, not only does the sun go down over bulosan volcano but also mayon volcano. sunrise is nice, most mornings i walk over to the small barrio called talisay [small barangay nearest the rock formations] for early exercise.
Hi, Peter. We failed to get photos of the sunrise
One of the things we missed! Giving us another reason to go back! 
hi gerry, sometimes the smb sunsets knock me about. will have to slow down a bit.
regards,
peter montgomery
Awesome rock formations! Were the photos taken during low tide? Great pics from your camera!
Hi Bert, yes, we went there during low tide.
Wow! I like your pictures… and your website, too.
thanks, gerry for highlighting my wife’s island. you actually stayed with her parents at villa amor [hope they made you welcome?]
i love those photos of you standing on the rocks with the waves breaking over you. if you are back in biri way in january, we will show you some really big waves.
thanks again.
peter & vilma montgomery
Pleasure’s mine, Peter. Yes, the staff (your nieces?) made us feel at home. They even gave us one room on the second floor of the main house & another room facing the beach, both air-conditioned.
Thanks for the wonderful stay!
Big waves in January? The trip crossing to the island must be pretty scary by then.
hi gerry, yes, it’s very scary. a few days ago a spanish guy went for a swim just off biri town and ended up in capul! that’s got to be 30 to 40 kilometers away. he is still alive.
thanks again.
peter and vilma montgomery
Yes, Peter, we saw the Spanish guy when he got back to Biri. He was staying at Villa Amor, too! He looked stiff and his back really needed some lotion. He was in the water for like 13 hours! Lucky for him he got ashore on an island – kilometers away!
some story to tell his grandchildren [if he should live that long], i hear the local birianons tried to tell him not to swim out to the island, he should have listened!!!
god willing we will be back for biri fiesta [june 24, 25]. i have been to the pintados fiesta in ’89 i think? stayed at village inn and covered in paint. had a great time tho.
thanks gerry
Peter, next time you hit Tacloban, drop by at calle Z cafe. Trike drivers know where it is. Just ask staff to call me.
If you love vintage rock music (or jazz fusion for that matter) and Filipino food, you’ve hit d right spot!
will do gerry.
Sir, thank you for your beautiful photos of Biri Island. I was there just a week ago and found it so beautiful. But I did not go around for lack of time and some of my friends brought along their kids so we had extra baggage and couldn’t roam around freely. Some locals there said that the place is enchanted and when you’re noisy the waves get mad. So for some unknown reason the waves got bigger and the locals said we should be going.
Maybe March 24-26, 2011 is a good time to go back to Biri Island to take that sunrise photo?
thank you so much for capturing the beauty of biri and showing it to us
will probably go there this july or august, weather permitting! we’re planning to stay at villa amor, too! i was wondering if it is true that there is no electricity from 12 midnight till 6 am? how did you manage the heat? i can’t sleep without aircon! LOL
At Villa Amor, you may request for electric power from their generator. There’s additional, minimal charge for it.
Hi Sir Gerry,
When is the best time to visit Biri? Thanks
Hi, Joy. Best time to visit is during summer time – April & May
what an amazing and awesome natural wonder! only in our Region! looking forward to visit this place. thanks for sharing these nice photos.
Maupay nga adlaw, Mano Gerry. Just wondering if you still have Villa Amor’s contact number. Puwede ba ako makaaro? Damo nga salamat.
Hi! Sorry but I still have to search for that in my files but I think we found it via a simple Google search. Try it.
WOW!!! STUNNING BIRI!! There could be a legend & mystery behind these awesome rock formations. Exposed & polished by continuous wave kisses into its elemental companion stocked w/ one of nature’s most bizarre creations. Breaking free into the light of day, it could really stop a wanderer in mid-stride to pause & appreciate these natural artworks. I could only write in my travel itineraries but proudly enough to tell my friends about these wonderful creations which is like an open art gallery perfectly designed by the Almighty. They can be bare bones of the Earth bringing splendor into the fringes of the sea. The rocky corners bringing groups to hike, backpack & climb. Somehow an inexhaustible reservoir of images for visual appreciation. With the sliver of great illumination of the day that seems a tributary streambed immensely getting embraced w/ the phantasmagorical formations of these sculpted elements. This kind of setting is the favorite one of the late great Impressionist Master Claude Monet. Anyway, thanks to Gerry Ruiz for the wonderful pictures again. Hoping I’ll meet you (I haven’t ever since…he he he) It would be my pleasure, you’re great!!! I can only ask for more visuals soon… Impressive! SAMAR RISING!!!
What a perfect post ! Thank you for your photos and article.
I love all the pictures of the rock formations. I miss Biri Island, I was born there 62 years ago. My father owned Punta. At the tip of the island facing the lighthouse and the Bulusan Volcano. When I was a small girl, I’d climb most of those rocks. Yes, there were old stories about Giron and Magasang my father told us about in our young age. I can still remember most of the stories. My father has long been gone, but the stories about Biri way back still remain in my mind. My husband keeps on telling me to write a book, so I can pass it on to my children, and their children. It has been a long time since… I was planning to visit Biri this fiesta, but my husband’s health has gotten along the way, that is why I can’t go. Maybe in the near future, I will be able to. Have a pleasant day, to all Birianons. May God bless the island.
I need accommodation from August 24, 2011 until September 12th in Biri for 2 people. We would like to go around this area. I am from Germany and hope for your help.
Thanks a lot,
Franz
how was the waves when you went there sir? did you see any surfers?
thanks in advanced,
adrian
In the area where we went to, which is where the huge rock formations are located, there’s no surfing there. You’ll get smashed up against the razor sharp rocks. But I think there is an area somewhere in Biri where surfing is possible. We didn’t see any surfer, though, when we went to town.
thanks po for this blog..My family we’ll be going there this March..sana maganda po yung weather at di maalon…haha…
Summer’s the best time to go to Biri. March should be okay.
This is just beautiful. Would love to see more recent pictures. Thank you for the post!